Suit that Suits you!

If you intend to wear a suit,wear it right.Play the game by rules listed below.

                                             Photo courtesy : Hunters Race

A man needs suit for every occasion, from board room to bar room ,from wedding to funeral.

What is a Suit ?

A suit is comprised of a Jacket and trouser in a matching fabric.

Anatomy of a suit

                                                                Lapels

Lapels can be defined as flaps of  fabric on each side of the suit jacket immediately below the collar and folded back.

You can have either notch or peak lapels as shown below :

Notch Lapel : where the bottom of the collar meets the lapel at an angle that creates a v-shaped notch

Peak Lapel:. The peak lapel ends in a point that just out beyond the collar.

The pint where collar meets lapel–is called the gorge

                                                            Back Vents

The slit present on the back of the suit.

Single ,double or none .It's all about personal prefernce .Dobule vents is more comes from british becuase it was easier to ride horse in thta.Single vent is more of an American trend .

Skinny fit goes well with single vent.Double vent goes well with taiolred suit.

                                        

                                                               Sleeve cuff

Your shirt cuff should fall to the base of the thumb,About half an inch of the shirt cuff should be visible beyond the jacket cuff. Similarly, the jacket sleeve should never hide the shirt sleeve entirely.

You can opt for either back to back buttons or waterfall buttons which overlap one another slightly.

                                                                Pockets

JET,WELT and FLAP

The jetted pocket is considered most formal and are when the pocket is sewn into the lining of the suit jacket leaving a small slit opening with a discrete seam running around the pocket opening

A welt pocket, it looks more like a conventional pocket you may be used to and is usually the style found on the outer breast. This is where you would put your pocket square.

A flap pocket uses the same principle as a jet, however there is an extra flap of material also sewn in which can be left out or tucked in to exactly mimic a jet

                                                           Trouser Hem

It all really comes down to personal preference and current trends as to whether you may want a cuffed or un-cuffed

                                                                   Lapel Hole

Have you wondered about the hole in your lapel .Earlier it was used to button your hat via cord in your suit .But now it is sued for flower or lapel pin.

Rules of wearing a Suit

1) Please don't wrap yourself like a birthday present. Last button of your suit should always be open.If  there is a universal rule this is the one.This trend was started in 1900s by King Edward VII who was too fat to get that last button of his vest and jacket closed. King is a King and he does what he wants and what he does then it becomes a rule.

2) Button up, unless you’re sitting down.Unbutton your suit when you sit down. Nobody likes to watch  popping out buttons.Give your suit some love and unbutton it when you sit.

                                    Photo by The Lazy Artist Gallery from Pexels

Buttoning rules are governed by the following two factors:

1. Depends on a  single or double breasted jacket
2. The single breast jacket has 1,2, or 3 buttons.

1 Button Suit

How to wear it:

I think if you can't figure this out,then not sure if you are tailored for Suits .

Where to where it: formal social occasions, stylish office settings.

2 Button Suit

It make you look taller.

How to wear it: Button the top button only.

Where to wear it: Any place, any time from boardroom to bar.

3 Button Suit

Its an old school style but in case you are a very tall guy to balance out the height you can go for this one ,

How to wear it: Button the top and middle buttons or just the middle one; never button the bottom one.

Where to wear it: Anywhere .

3-roll 2   Suit

Its a hybrid of 3 button and 2 button

The top button is designed to be left unbuttoned.The top button is on the lapel roll.

How to wear it: Button the middle button and leave the top and bottom ones unbuttoned.

Where to wear it: Anywhere you’d wear a 2-button suit but with an extra punch.

Buttoning Rules For Double-Breasted Suit Jackets

Double-breasted jackets are almost always worn buttoned. It's very unusual to unbutton one.

Double-breasted jackets are described with the total number of buttons on the suit front followed by the number of working buttons. A “six-on-four” jacket has six buttons but only four buttonholes.

Button all the buttons that have working buttonholes.

 3) Don't let your shirt strangle you .Wear a shirt that is comfortable and closing the top button should   not suffocate you.You can change your look by just changing the collar type of shirt.Classic collar,spread collar,button down collar.

4) Measure the suit by your shoulders.it should neither be too tight not too loose .It shouldn't  look like a borrowed one .It should be a correct fit. I will write  a diffrent post on

5) Match you shoes color with the suit color .Brown/Tan shoes with Brown suit and Black shoes  with black suit

                                                     Photo by Lukas from Pexels

6) Your Tie should be of appropriate length. It should just end on top of your belt.

                                                         Photo by Mike from Pexels

7) Special attention to tie knot.Size does matter .Go for full Windsor or a half Windsor knot.

                                        Photo by Deepak Verma from Pexels

8) The Jacket length should cover the zipper of the pants.

9)Belt should match the shoes.

 

Photo by Keegan Everitt from Pexels

Now when it comes to selecting your next suit,you will make an informed decision .Please comment if you think this article helped you in understanding your suit better.